Lawn Care 101
LAWN-BOY Safety
Recall Check
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Buying lawn seed is an
investment, what you choose will determine the quality,
durability and the success of your lawn. You need to know
what kind of grass does well in your area. Check the
information that is printed on the package to help you make
the best choice. Grasses are sold as a
single type, a blend of like grasses (species) or a mixture
of different types (cultivators). Single type - Are
usually warm season grasses. Blends of like grasses
(species) - Fescues are a good example to take advantage
of each grass's strengths and properties. Mixture of different
types (cultivators) - Allows one to prevail in areas
where the others are weak, Kentucky bluegrass (sunlight),
perennial ryegrass (durability), and fine fescue (shade) are
a common mixture. These are solution for cool
seasons. Prepare the soil by
raking and leveling the area. Plan the delivery so you can
lay it on the day it arrives, otherwise keep it moist and in
the shade. Water the prepared area
that is to receive the sod, then begin rolling out the sod
along a straight edge within the prepared area. Press the
edges of the sod tightly together; do not stretch the sod.
Stagger the ends of the sod pieces so that no two adjacent
pieces end together. When you need to cut the sod, use a
sharp knife. When sodding a slope, start at the bottom, and
lay the sod horizontally along the slope. When you are done laying
the sod, gently but firmly roll the sod with a roller filled
about halfway with water. Keep well watered for at
least two weeks, during which time the sod will knit into
the native soil. Cutting a lawn too short
will encourage shallow root systems, cause it to dry out and
it will not absorb as much sunlight. Most lawns should be
cut so the grass is two inches long at least, never cut more
than 1/3 the length of the grass. If you have been away on
holidays raise the height of your mower, then cut it again a
couple days later to the normal length. Don't cut grass when it
is damp from dew or rain and always have a sharp blade on
the mower to prevent tearing of the leaf tissue. Alternate your cutting
pattern, north and south one time, then east and west the
next time. The grass will tend to lean over if always cut in
one direction. Leave clipping on the
lawn, they are a source of nutrients and nitrogen, contrary
to popular belief they will not contribute to thatch build
up. Mow new lawns when they
are 1/3 higher than normal height, move slowly, watch when
turning so as not to distrub roots, they are still very
shallow. Use a mulching mower, the clippings will shade the
soil to prevent rapid moisture loss, and add nutrients to
the new grass. Let the soil dry out for a day or two before
mowing, use a sharp blade. Always wear heavy,
non-slip shoes that provide traction as well as guard
against hard or sharp items that are hidden in the grass.
Avoid loose clothing that
could become caught on your lawnmower's controls. Always
wear long pants, socks and a long-sleeved shirt to protect
your body from small objects that are thrown by your lawn
mower's blades. Use safety glasses when
mowing grass. Bits of grass, dirt, leaves and other objects
can be discharged from your mower, rebound and hit your
face. Always mow in the daytime
when grass is dry. Wet grass can cause your feet to slip. If
you slip, your feet can come in contact with the mower's
blades. Manual turning of the
blades can cause your mower to start even when the motor has
been turned off. If your mower becomes plugged, be certain
to disconnect the spark plug wire before touching mower
blades for cleaning. If you are using an electric mower, wet
grass can cause shock. Be certain that your
children and family pets are not in the area where you plan
to mow. Never disconnect mower
safety features. They may cause some inconvenience but they
can save you a trip to the hospital. Add oil and gas outdoors
while the engine is cold. Wipe all spills and allow the
mower to sit while residue evaporates. Never leave a mower
unattended while the engine is running. Move in a forward
direction at all times. Push; don't pull a hand mower. You
can accidentally fall, pulling the mower onto your
feet. On a riding mower, always
mow slopes up and down so the tractor won't tip sideways.
With hand mowers, mow slopes across, this gives you better
footing. A
roto-tiller,
spreader and lawn roller will be required, if you don't have
them renting may be more economical than purchasing, unless
you can borrow them from a neighbour. Proper tilling and
rolling will not be possible until the area has dried
sufficiently to be worked. Squeeze a handful of soil if it
crumbles easily it indicates adequate dryness. Any existing
sod can be rototilled into the soil to add organic matter.
The deeper you can till the area, the healthier the lawn
will be. Additional top soil should be tilled into the
existing soil. After the tilling, rake
the entire area to remove large dirt clods and rocks, and
basically level the area. At this point you should roll the
area with a lawn roller. The roller should be filled with
water for weight, roll just enough to firm the soil. Fill
any low areas and then roll those once again. Repeated
rolling will pack the soil and prevent proper
drainage. Fertilizer should be
applied at planting time to give the new seed adequate
nutrients to develop. Use a fertilizer which is high in
phosphorous to promote root development and growth. Apply
the fertilizer to the planting area at the rate recommended
by the manufacturer. Use one half the
recommended amount of seed and spread in a north to south
direction, spread the remaining half in an east to west
direction to insure a uniform application. Go over the area with the
roller filled half full. Water the entire area
after planting, keep the ground moist until the lawn is well
established, avoid standing pools of water. Germination will
take 7-15 days depending on the weather and
temperature. Proper watering practices
will improve the quality of your lawn, provide environmental
benefits, and save you money. Most homeowners tend to
over-water their lawns and actually waste water by not
following a few relatively simple practices. The healthiest lawns are
produced when they are watered heavily at infrequent
intervals. On an average, the lawn needs about one inch of
water per week, obtained either by rainfall or watering.
This l-inch rule will normally soak the soil to a depth of 4
to 6 inches, allowing the water to reach deep into the root
system. Let the lawn completely
dry out between watering intervals. Most lawn grasses can
tolerate dryer conditions over a reasonable period of time.
Water only when a probe or screwdriver is difficult to push
into the ground or shows that the soil is dry 4 to 6 inches
down. The best times to water
your lawn are early morning or early evening, when there is
generally less wind and heat. Watering then allows for less
evaporation into the air, greater penetration into the soil,
and less run-off. Interrupt watering when puddles or run-off
occur. Allow water to penetrate into the soil before
resuming watering. Soil types vary in the speed at which
water will soak into them. Generally speaking, most watering
systems apply water faster than it can be absorbed by the
soil. Sloping areas are particularly prone to
run-off. Keep a newly seeded lawn
moist, but not soaked, during the germination process. Too
much water can cause poor germination and seedling disease.
A light mulch over the seed will help keep the soil moist.
As a new lawn begins to grow, lower the frequency of
watering and increase the amount of water. After 4 to 6
weeks, treat the new lawn as an established lawn. Soak a newly sodded lawn
completely after placement, for a period of about 2 weeks,
this allows the root system to become firmly established in
the soil. Soaking may require watering every day or two.
After a couple of weeks, water the sod as an established
lawn. Test your sprinkler
capacity by placing shallow containers such as tuna cans at
intervals away from the sprinkler head, let it run for 1/2
hour, shut it off and check depth of water in the cans. This
will give you a indication as to how evenly the sprinkler is
dispersing the water and the volume of water it has
dispersed, use this to calculate the time the sprinkler must
be on to apply one inch of water. Click
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